Yesterday, I walked some 28km from Estella to Torres del Rio, thus avoiding staying at Los Arcos which I remembered Rachel had described as being "creepy". Indeed creepy it was..my only encounter with a local was a man who said " tomorrow you´ll be treading on snow...." so I carried on to Torres del Rio, to a hostel called Casa Mari which Mel had recommended and was truly worth the extra distance, although I suffered the last 4 km with a swollen foot and a bit of pain.
Today dawned with a light rain, and i set out in trepidation, afraid of my foot giving me more problems. The day started with 10km of up and down muddy and slippery slopes. There is a Spanish phrase "tread with muddy feet" meaning " be careful" and today i fully understood where this phrase comes from! I had originally planned to go just as far as Logroño (about 20km) but i made good progress and found that my foot wasnt hurting at all, so carried on to Navarrete some 12 km further. Just before Navarrete, on the right hand side of the path, there was a long stretch of fence separating the camino from the motorway which someone had spent a lot of time decorating with crosses made from twigs woven through the fence. As i walked along i became amazed at the extent of this work of art stretching for several hundred metres, and with no sign of coming to an end..until finally I got it..the decoration was of course the work of pilgrims, at which point I duly placed my own cross with the others! This simple revelation was the high point of my day, the revelation of the power of participation instead of remaing a spectator. The crosses finally finished a couple of km later where the fence stopped.